Colliers et pendentifs

The pieces people keep longest.

Necklaces tend to be the most personal jewellery a collection holds, which is why so many survive with their original fitted cases and, occasionally, their history intact. Over fifteen years of sourcing from estates, private collections, dealers and auction houses across Europe and beyond, The Antique Guild has developed the expertise to distinguish the exceptional from the merely old. Every piece is assessed for hallmarks, maker signatures, materials and construction before it enters the collection. Explore the current selection below.

Why collect necklaces through The Antique Guild

Every antique necklace authenticated for period, metal, clasp integrity and stone or material accuracy
Specialist knowledge across antique pearl necklaces, Victorian chains, Edwardian lavalières and Art Deco sautoirs
Sourced from private estates and specialist collections, with particular depth in pearl, garnet and diamond necklaces
Pieces selected to be worn — bringing history and craftsmanship into everyday life

Care Guide

What to Look For When Buying

Begin at the clasp and work outwards. Barrel clasps, bolt rings and box clasps each belong to particular periods, and because the clasp does the work it is the most frequently replaced component on any necklace. A later clasp is not a fault, though it is worth understanding, particularly where the original would have carried the hallmarks. Run the full length of a chain looking for repaired links, which show as a variation in colour, gauge or solder, and check that the pattern of the links remains consistent throughout. On graduated necklaces and rivières, confirm that the graduation is even and that stones or pearls are properly matched, since replacements are common and rarely a perfect match.

Pearl necklaces require particular attention. Silk thread has a working life, and a strand that has not been restrung in decades will show grubby, stretched thread and gaps between the pearls at the clasp end. Look at the drill holes for wear and at the pearl surface for nacre loss around the drill, which is the first place a strand shows its age. Lockets and pendant necklaces should be checked for hinge integrity and for the presence of original glazed compartments and back plates. Every necklace in the collection is assessed through this process before listing, and our team is available to answer specific questions ahead of any purchase.

Caring for Your Piece

Store necklaces laid flat or hung individually, never coiled in a shared box, where chains tangle and pendant settings scratch. Fasten the clasp before storing so it cannot catch. Put a necklace on after fragrance and hair products have dried, as alcohol and oils are particularly damaging to pearls, opals, turquoise and enamel. Wipe pearls with a soft damp cloth after wearing and allow them to dry fully before storing, and keep them out of airtight containers, since the nacre needs some ambient moisture. Have pearl strands restrung by a specialist every few years if worn regularly, and with knots between the pearls. For metal chains and set stones, a soft dry cloth is sufficient, and anything requiring more should be handled by a jeweller familiar with antique work.

Periods Worth Knowing

Victorian necklaces range from heavy engraved collars and book chain designs to the long guard chains worn with watches and eyeglasses, alongside mourning pieces in jet, onyx and woven hair. The Edwardian period produced the finest openwork, with platinum festoon necklaces, negligée pendants and delicate pearl and diamond arrangements made possible by advances in platinum working. Art Deco necklaces from the 1920s and 1930s are longer, more linear and more geometric, using contrasting materials and repeating forms with a clarity that still reads as modern.

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Jewellery & Watch Care, Provenance & Purchase Support

How are antique necklaces authenticated?

We assess each piece for hallmarks on clasps and fittings, the period-appropriate construction of links and settings, the character of stones and their cuts, and the overall integrity of the design. For pearl necklaces, we examine the quality and consistency of the pearls, the knotting between each bead, and the period of the clasp. Provenance documentation is provided where available.
Are antique necklaces wearable or primarily for display?

Most pieces in this collection are wearable, and many of our clients wear them regularly. Delicate Edwardian pieces with fine chains or open settings benefit from occasional rather than daily wear. We will always advise on the wearability of a specific piece and note any fragility that warrants care.
Can antique necklaces be repaired or re-strung?

Yes. Pearl necklaces benefit from periodic re-stringing, and chain repairs can typically be carried out without compromising a piece. We can recommend trusted specialists for any repair or restoration work, and we will advise clearly on what is appropriate before recommending any work be done.
How should antique necklaces be stored?

Necklaces should be stored flat or hung to prevent chain tangling and stress on clasps. Pearl necklaces in particular benefit from being stored away from other jewellery — pearls are soft and scratch easily. We recommend a lined jewellery case or individual pouches, and advise against storing pieces in airtight containers, which can dry out organic materials over time.
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