Collection: Antique Sculptures

Objects that read differently from every side.

Sculpture asks more of a room than a picture does, since it occupies space rather than a wall and changes as you move around it. It also spans a wider range of materials than any other art category, and marble, bronze, terracotta, alabaster and carved timber each age, fail and need looking after in entirely different ways. The Antique Guild assesses material, making, condition and any restoration before a work enters the collection. We deliver to collectors throughout Australia. Explore the current selection below.

Why collect antique sculpture through The Antique Guild

Every sculpture assessed for period casting or carving quality, foundry or maker marks, patina integrity and attribution evidence
Specialist knowledge across 19th-century French bronze sculpture, marble and stone carving, and Asian sculptural traditions
Sourced from private collections and specialist sculpture estates, with a focus on maker-attributed pieces with documented foundry histories
Sculpture chosen for the quality of its form — objects that hold a room and reward viewing from every angle

Care Guide

What to Look For When Buying

Identify the material first, because everything else follows from it. Marble is cold, heavy and shows fine crystalline structure and natural veining that runs through the form rather than across its surface. Alabaster is noticeably softer, warmer to the touch and translucent at thin edges, and it is easily confused with marble by anyone who has not handled both. Plaster and composition casts, often finished to imitate stone or bronze, are far lighter and reveal themselves at chips and at the base. Terracotta shows its fired clay body wherever the surface is broken. Carved timber should show the grain working with the form and the shrinkage and movement of age.

Then assess the making and the condition. Carved stone shows tool evidence, and traces of rasp, chisel and drill in recesses are what distinguish carving from casting. Look closely at the extremities, meaning fingers, noses, drapery edges and any projecting element, since these are what break and what get replaced, and repairs in marble and alabaster are frequently disguised with tinted fill that becomes visible under ultraviolet light or in raking light. Check the base, which is often a later addition and sometimes not original to the figure at all. For bronze sculpture, the questions of casting method, foundry marks, patina and later casts apply in full, and the guidance on our bronze collection page covers those in detail. We document material, condition and known restoration in every listing.

Caring for Your Piece

Position and mounting matter more here than anywhere else in the collection, because sculpture falls. Place works on a stable, level surface rated for the weight, away from thoroughfares, doors and anything that vibrates, and consider a discreet museum wax or a purpose made mount for anything top heavy. Lift from the heaviest solid mass, using both hands beneath the work, and never by a head, arm, drapery edge or other projection.

Handle stone with clean dry hands or gloves, since skin oils penetrate marble and alabaster and leave marks that darken permanently over time. Dust with a soft dry brush rather than a cloth, which catches on carved detail. Never use water on alabaster, plaster or terracotta, all of which absorb it, and never use any acidic or general household cleaner on marble, where even mild acid etches the polished surface irreversibly. Keep stone and plaster away from damp, since salts drawn through the material cause the surface to crumble in a process known as sugaring, which cannot be reversed. Carved timber follows the same rules as antique furniture: stable conditions, no direct sun, and occasional light waxing rather than any spray product. Leave all repairs and cleaning beyond dusting to a conservator working in the specific material.

Jewellery & Watch Care, Provenance & Purchase Support

How do I tell marble from alabaster or plaster?

Weight and temperature are the quickest guide. Marble is heavy and feels distinctly cold. Alabaster is lighter, warmer, softer enough to mark with a fingernail in an inconspicuous place, and often translucent at edges. Plaster and composition are lighter again and usually reveal a white or grey body at any chip. The distinction matters because alabaster and plaster are far more vulnerable to water and handling than marble is.

Can a broken finger or a chipped edge be repaired?

Yes, and this is routine conservation work in both stone and timber. A conservator can pin and fill a clean break so it is barely visible, and the work should be recorded. What is worth avoiding is a domestic repair with modern adhesive, which discolours, fails and makes proper repair harder afterwards. Keep any broken piece, however small, since an original fragment is always preferable to a fill.

Does restoration affect value?

Extent matters more than fact. A pinned finger or a repaired drapery edge is accepted on a work of any age. Replacement of a head, extensive recarving, or fills across a principal passage reduce value substantially. As with paintings, disclosure is the point, and we describe restoration where we identify it rather than leaving a buyer to find it under ultraviolet light later.

Can sculpture go outdoors?

Not antique sculpture, in almost all cases. Marble erodes in rain, freeze and pollution, plaster and terracotta break down quickly, bronze patina alters and corrodes, and timber will not last. Works made for gardens were made in specific materials for that purpose and even those need attention. Anything from an interior collection should stay indoors.

How should a heavy work be moved?

By more people than seems necessary, with the route cleared first and a destination prepared before the work is lifted. Take the weight low and at the mass, never at a projection, and use a trolley with padding for anything substantial. For heavy marble and stone, use a carrier experienced with sculpture rather than general removalists, since the damage from a single drop is usually not repairable.